Sitka is the odd one out among Alaska's Inside Passage ports. While Ketchikan, Juneau, and Skagway sit in protected channels and fjords, Sitka faces the open Pacific. The town occupies the western shore of Baranof Island, looking out across Sitka Sound toward a chain of volcanic islands and, beyond them, the Gulf of Alaska.

The setting is extraordinary. Mount Edgecumbe, a dormant volcano that looks like a smaller version of Mount Fuji, rises from Kruzof Island across the sound. The harbor is dotted with small islands. The water is clear and cold and full of life -- sea otters, harbor seals, Steller sea lions, humpback whales, and orcas all use Sitka Sound regularly.

Sitka also has the most interesting history of any port on the Inside Passage. It was the capital of Russian America, the seat of the Russian-American Company's fur trade empire, and the site of the 1867 transfer ceremony when the United States purchased Alaska from Russia. The Russian influence is still visible in the architecture, the Orthodox church, and the cultural institutions.

Sea kayaking in Sitka Sound is among the best paddling in Southeast Alaska. The protected waters around the harbor islands offer calm conditions for beginners, while the outer sound provides more challenging paddling for experienced kayakers.

Most guided tours depart from the harbor and paddle through the island chain east of town. The route passes through kelp beds, around rocky outcroppings, and through channels where sea otters float on their backs cracking shellfish. Bald eagles are everywhere -- Sitka has one of the highest concentrations of bald eagles in the world.

Beginners: Two-hour tours in the harbor islands are appropriate for first-time kayakers. The water is protected, the pace is relaxed, and guides provide instruction on paddling technique and wildlife identification.

Intermediate paddlers: Half-day tours venture farther into the sound and may include a beach landing on one of the outer islands. These tours cover more distance and offer better wildlife viewing.

Wildlife focus: Some operators offer tours specifically designed around wildlife viewing, with guides who are trained naturalists. These tours move more slowly and spend more time watching animals than covering distance.

Prices run $75 to $150 per person depending on tour length. Book in advance -- Sitka receives fewer cruise ships than other Inside Passage ports, which means fewer tour operators and faster sellouts.

Sitka National Historical Park preserves the site of the 1804 Battle of Sitka, where Tlingit warriors held off Russian forces for six days before withdrawing. The park contains a collection of totem poles -- some originals, some replicas -- set along a trail through old-growth forest above the Indian River.

The poles here are different from those in Ketchikan. They are older, more weathered, and set in a forest context that makes them feel like part of the landscape rather than museum pieces. The trail is about a mile long and takes about 45 minutes to walk at a comfortable pace.

The visitor center has exhibits on both the Tlingit culture and the Russian colonial period. The Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center, inside the park, has working artists demonstrating traditional crafts including weaving, beadwork, and silver engraving.

The Russian Bishop's House is one of four surviving examples of Russian colonial architecture in North America. Built in 1842, it served as the residence of the Russian Orthodox bishop and is now a National Park Service historic site. The interior has been restored to its 1853 appearance and contains original furnishings, religious objects, and exhibits on the Russian-American Company.

St. Michael's Cathedral, in the center of downtown, is a reconstruction of the original 1848 cathedral that burned in 1966. The congregation saved most of the original icons and religious objects before the building was destroyed, and they are now displayed in the rebuilt cathedral. The cathedral is open to visitors and the icons are extraordinary -- some date to the 17th century.

The Alaska Raptor Center rehabilitates injured birds of prey and maintains a flight training center for eagles and other raptors that cannot be released to the wild. The center is about a mile from downtown and offers close-up views of bald eagles, owls, hawks, and falcons.

The flight training center is the highlight -- a 20,000-square-foot enclosed flight facility where eagles practice flying and hunting. Watching a bald eagle fly at full speed in an enclosed space gives you a sense of their power that you cannot get from watching them soar overhead.

Sitka Sound is productive whale-watching territory. Humpback whales feed in the sound from May through October, and orca sightings are more common here than at most Inside Passage ports. Sea otter populations have recovered dramatically in recent decades and are now abundant throughout the sound.

Wildlife boat tours typically run three to four hours and cover the outer islands and the sound. Guides are usually naturalists with deep knowledge of the local ecosystem. These tours are a good complement to a morning kayak session.

Getting around: Sitka's cruise terminal is about a mile from downtown. A shuttle bus runs between the terminal and town. The historic park, raptor center, and most attractions are walkable from downtown.

Timing: Sitka typically receives one or two cruise ships per day, and port calls run six to eight hours. The smaller ship presence means less crowding at attractions.

Weather: Sitka receives about 95 inches of rain annually. Dress in layers and bring waterproof gear. The kayak operators provide dry suits or rain gear.

Booking: Sitka has fewer tour operators than Juneau or Ketchikan. Book excursions well in advance, especially for kayaking and wildlife tours.

Sitka is the most underrated port on the Inside Passage. The history is richer, the wildlife is more abundant, and the setting -- open ocean, volcanic islands, old-growth forest -- is unlike anything else in Southeast Alaska. If your itinerary includes Sitka, plan your day carefully and make the most of it.