Baltimore is a working port city that has reinvented itself around its waterfront without losing its character. The Inner Harbor, once an industrial wasteland, is now a destination in its own right -- the National Aquarium, the Maryland Science Center, historic ships, and a waterfront promenade that connects neighborhoods that were isolated from each other for decades.

The city is also the gateway to the Chesapeake Bay, the largest estuary in the United States and the source of the blue crabs that define Maryland's culinary identity. A proper Baltimore crab cake -- made with jumbo lump crab, minimal filler, and broiled rather than fried -- is one of the great American foods.

Royal Caribbean and Carnival both homeport ships in Baltimore, making it a significant embarkation point for East Coast cruisers. If you are starting or ending your cruise here, plan to spend at least a day in the city.

Baltimore's cruise terminal is at South Locust Point, on the south side of the harbor about two miles from the Inner Harbor. The terminal is modern and well-organized, with parking, taxi service, and shuttle buses to downtown.

The Inner Harbor is accessible by water taxi from the terminal, or by taxi and rideshare. The water taxi is the most scenic option and runs frequently during operating hours.

The Inner Harbor is Baltimore's most visited destination and a legitimate attraction rather than just a tourist trap. The waterfront promenade connects several major institutions within easy walking distance.

National Aquarium (501 E. Pratt Street) is consistently ranked among the best aquariums in the United States. The Atlantic coral reef exhibit, the Amazon River Forest, and the dolphin presentation are the highlights. Allow three to four hours. Book tickets in advance -- the aquarium sells out on weekends and during peak season.

USS Constellation is the last all-sail warship built by the U.S. Navy, launched in 1854. It is docked at the Inner Harbor and open for self-guided tours. The ship is remarkably intact and the below-decks exhibits explain life aboard a 19th-century warship.

Maryland Science Center has strong exhibits on Chesapeake Bay ecology and an IMAX theater. Good option for families with children.

Historic Ships in Baltimore includes the USS Torsk (a WWII submarine), the USCGC Taney (the last ship afloat that survived the attack on Pearl Harbor), and the lightship Chesapeake. A single ticket covers all four vessels.

Fort McHenry is the most historically significant site in Baltimore. During the War of 1812, British forces bombarded the fort for 25 hours on the night of September 13-14, 1814. Francis Scott Key, watching from a ship in the harbor, was so moved by the sight of the American flag still flying at dawn that he wrote the poem that became the national anthem.

The fort is a National Monument and Historic Shrine, about two miles from the Inner Harbor. The National Park Service has done excellent interpretive work -- the exhibits explain both the military history and the broader context of the War of 1812. Rangers lead tours throughout the day.

Allow two to three hours for Fort McHenry. A water taxi runs from the Inner Harbor to the fort during the summer season.

Fells Point is Baltimore's oldest neighborhood, a cobblestone waterfront district that has been a working port since the 1730s. The neighborhood has excellent bars, restaurants, and independent shops. The Broadway Market, operating since 1786, is one of the oldest public markets in the United States.

Federal Hill sits on a bluff south of the Inner Harbor with views over the harbor and downtown. The neighborhood has good restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere. Patterson Park, a few miles east, is a large urban park with a pagoda that offers panoramic views of the city.

Baltimore is 40 miles from Washington D.C., and the MARC commuter train runs between Penn Station in Baltimore and Union Station in Washington in about an hour. If you have a full day before or after your cruise, a D.C. day trip is feasible.

The Smithsonian museums are free and extraordinary. The National Mall, the Lincoln Memorial, and the Capitol are all within walking distance of Union Station. Allow at least six hours in D.C. to make the trip worthwhile.

Baltimore's crab cake is a specific thing. It should be made with jumbo lump blue crab from the Chesapeake Bay, bound with just enough mayonnaise and Old Bay seasoning to hold together, and broiled until golden. Anything else is an imitation.

LP Steamers (1100 E. Fort Ave) is the standard by which Baltimore crab cakes are measured. The restaurant is in South Baltimore, a short drive from the Inner Harbor. The crab cakes are broiled, not fried, and the crab is fresh and abundant.

Faidley Seafood in Lexington Market (400 W. Lexington Street) has been making crab cakes since 1886. The market itself is worth a visit -- it is one of the oldest continuously operating public markets in the United States.

Thames Street Oyster House (1728 Thames Street) in Fells Point has excellent crab cakes and a strong raw bar. The setting -- a restored 19th-century building on the waterfront -- is as good as the food.

Parking: South Locust Point Terminal has on-site parking. Rates run $20 to $25 per day. Book in advance through the terminal website for guaranteed spots.

Getting around: The Inner Harbor is walkable. Fells Point and Federal Hill are accessible by water taxi or rideshare. Fort McHenry requires a taxi or rideshare.

Weather: Baltimore summers are hot and humid. Spring and fall are the most comfortable seasons. The harbor can be windy -- bring a light jacket even in summer.

Pre/post cruise hotels: The Marriott Inner Harbor, the Hyatt Regency Baltimore, and the Sagamore Pendry Baltimore (in Fells Point) are the best options near the waterfront.

Baltimore rewards the traveler who gets off the tourist track. The neighborhoods are genuine, the food is exceptional, and the history -- from the War of 1812 to the Civil Rights Movement -- is told honestly and well. Give it a full day and it will surprise you.